Natural ladies, have you ever ever stepped within the bathe to scrub your hair and it appeared like your curls simply refuse to soak up water? You’re not dreaming; chances are high your hair actually is not taking to the moisture, and this possible means you’ve a low-porosity texture. “Low porosity hair is resistant to absorbing and losing water due to its tighter structure,” explains board-certified dermatologist Shani Francis.
The pore is solely a channel or gateway for substances to enter the hair shaft. “Simply put, low porosity hair is a hair fiber that has overlapping cuticles. These overlapping cuticles create a barrier preventing water and moisture to penetrate,” explains trichologist and creative colorist, Bridgette Hill. She says that, in low porosity hair, the cuticle is so tightly overlapped that water and water-based merchandise bead on prime of the hair fiber versus penetrating the hair fiber. “Hair porosity refers to how open your hair shaft is to receive and lose a substance, most often water or moisture,” says Francis.
Hill explains that extraordinarily low porosity hair requires a bit alkalinity for greatest outcomes. William Gaunitz, WTS, trichologist, and founding father of Advanced Trichology concurs. “The best way to open the cuticle of a hair is to create an alkaline environment,” he says. “Washing hair with alkaline shampoo could be a good option for getting moisture into the hair.” This is the place a clarifying or exfoliating shampoo is available in. “Ingredients in these shampoos open the cuticle to allow for moisture to enter and break down the protein structures,” says Hill. Francis additional explains that the very best substances for low porosity hair needs to be smaller, molecule-based, and extra polar. (*11*) says Francis.
Breaking down protein could not appear to be a good suggestion for hair, however Hill explains that this course of permits humectants and moisture to penetrate the hair fiber deeper, giving the hair extra elasticity, softness, and shine. She additionally notes that your hair will not really feel nice to the touch after shampoo, however says that it’s going to after you correctly situation it.
Jamila Powell, curl professional and founding father of Maggie Rose Salon, says that hair sorts that do not settle for hydration simply want to ensure hair is hydrated and moisturized regularly. “The best way to do this is to wash your hair more frequently and through consistent deep-conditioning,” she says. “Low-porosity hair requires as much hydration as possible, and the best form of hydration is water. Therefore, I would suggest washing your hair more frequently, not the opposite.” Gaunitz provides that utilizing alkaline water that is above an 8.0 pH might additionally encourage the next degree of moisture. Cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson, of Beauty Stat, additionally notes the significance of utilizing the right pH for each water and your merchandise: “High pH products, which are more alkaline, can make hair more porous,” he says. “And low pH products like apple cider vinegar can make hair less porous.”
After you shampoo, Hill says to begin your conditioning and styling with a humectant to draw moisture. “It works as the adhesive layer of moisture that is small enough to penetrate the cuticle,” says Hill. The second layer of moisture needs to be lipids. “Lipids, which are found in fatty acid oils like avocado and shea, binds to the humectant filling open spaces created by the clarifying shampoo with moisture-binding ingredients.”
Powell additionally advises in opposition to emollient-heavy formulation. “I would recommend avoiding most oil-based products and look for more moisture-based products so that the ingredients don’t just sit atop the hair.” Hill agrees: “It is important for people with low porosity hair to use conditioners that are water-based. Natural glycerine, lanolin, avocado, jojoba, and shea are all ingredients that offer loads of moisture for low porosity hair,” says Hill. Robinson agrees: “avoid too much protein or heavy oils as they can sit on the hair and not absorb,” he says. “To help with absorption, condition hair when wet and/or apply some heat help absorption.”
Once you have discovered what merchandise work greatest for you, Dominique Burton, curl professional and founding father of La Fleur Hair Studio, says it’s best to undertake the LCO (liquid, cream, oil) methodology. “It’s a great way for low porosity hair to absorb moisture effectively,” Burton says. “First, apply water or a water-based product, followed by a cream to seal and moisturize ends, and finish it with a natural oil.”
One factor to notice, which Francis factors out, is that having low porosity hair is not a foul factor. “In fact, it’s the goal,” she says. “Everyone wants small ‘poreless’ skin, but when it comes to hair, there is confusion.” Ultimately, for wholesome hair, you need moisture to get in and keep in. Now that you’ve the why and how-tos in place, try some expert-approved merchandise that may hydrate low-porosity curls, and in the end make wash day an entire lot simpler.