In the historical past of elementary-school area journeys, there was nothing extra anticipated (a minimum of for a really particular group of us residing within the northeast hall of the U.S. on planet Earth throughout the ‘80s) than a go to to Washington, D.C. The early-morning bus trip, a fast glimpse of the White House, the Hard Rock Café T-shirts, and the fruits: A couple of minutes on the finish of the day for some unchaperoned free time on the mothership of all reward retailers, the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum, the place rows and rows of freeze-dried astronaut ice cream awaited these of us armed with just a few months of saved allowance and a few further room in our backpacks.
Fast-forward to now: The house race is again in fullforce and so is an elevated curiosity in the whole lot freezedried—solely this time, it’s displaying up in skincare.
“Freeze-drying has been done for years in the food industry, and now the cosmetic world is catching up to how efficacious it can be,” says celeb aesthetician Veronica Barton Schwartz. “There are many countries that use this technology—Korea has been using freeze-dried collagen and hyaluronic acid patches to heal skin wounds for a while; I also saw it in Japan and China when I visited a few years ago, and now it’s here.”
Freeze-drying has been completed for years within the meals business, and now the beauty world is catching up.
As beauty chemist Kelly Dobos explains, in a nutshell, freeze-drying— which she cash “the latest trend in waterless beauty”—is finished by utilizing a low-temperature dehydration course of. “Freeze-drying is a sophisticated process in which pressure and a small amount of heat are applied after a material has cooled below freezing so that water sublimes—meaning it goes from a frozen solid state to gas without melting into a liquid first. This process preserves the qualities of the original ingredients in their natural and raw form. The dried ingredients are rehydrated by mixing with water to activate just prior to use.”
While Dobos says not each skin-care ingredient is appropriate for the freezedrying course of (“sophisticated proteins and peptides are fragile and can be damaged; plus, it is difficult to freeze-dry multiple ingredients together because of differences in the freezing behavior of the individual components”), she does see the know-how as particularly helpful for botanical elements that include heat-sensitive parts that may simply degrade with different drying strategies. “Controlling the size of ice crystals formed in the process can also rupture cell walls of plant materials, allowing for the more effective release of some beneficial components. Some freeze-dried ingredients like aloe vera have been used in cosmetics for years because of the benefits in handling and storage, but the processing can be costly, so up until now, its use on a larger scale has been fairly limited.”
Another plus: Freeze-drying extends shelf life, which in flip, might be gentler on the atmosphere, and delicate pores and skin varieties as effectively. “Due to a lack of preservatives, freeze-dried skin care is also hypoallergenic. When water is present in a formula, that formula needs a preservative to keep it safe, but freeze-dried ingredients don’t need to be preserved [microbes need water to survive], so there is less chance of contamination to the ingredients,” Barton Schwartz says, pointing to elements like hyaluronic acid and polyphenols as working particularly effectively. “Researchers are still doing studies on what actives can and cannot be freeze-dried, but using fewer and fewer preservatives on our skin may be a win-win for everyone, especially in the post-COVID era.”
While Rochester, NY dermatologist Lesley Loss, MD says there may be positively one thing intriguing in regards to the “more potent and purer” promise, she stresses that quite a lot of components have to be thought-about, together with how the elements are ready and any potential mishandling by the tip consumer. “It’s too soon and the technology is too new to say if these products are more effective,” she provides. “I think the technology and innovation with freeze-dried beauty will continue to evolve, and we’ll see even more advancement in product efficacy that allows improved delivery of active ingredients, all while eliminating preservatives, fillers and stabilizers.”
“From professionals recommending the most effective products for particular treatments to over-the-counter products and those who wish to minimize unnecessary ingredients from daily use, freeze-dried beauty may hold a key,” Dr. Loss says.
Science Class: The elimination of water additionally reduces weight for transport, says Dobos. “It’s why NASA uses freeze-dry technology to get food supply to the space station. Cost and the types of ingredients that can be freeze-dried successfully are limiting factors, but sustainability and eco-friendly beauty trends favor its broader application in cosmetics.”
These powdered actives ship some potent skin-care options—simply add water.
Rael Moisture Melt Snowball ($24); Beauty Pie Superdose C Vitamin C Ampoules ($100); Saro de Rúe Freeze-Dried Hyaluronic Acid Anti-Aging System ($170); Weibo Eye Masks.
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